Booze Muse

The art and craft of liquid inspiration

Somme Wisdom: Bringing Your Own to Higher-End Restaurants

Wine is Poetry in a Bottle No Comments »
Charles Ford/Photo: Anjali Pinto

Charles Ford/Photo: Anjali Pinto

By David Hammond

There are restaurants, usually smaller ones, all over Chicago that proudly display “BYO,” announcing to us that it’s cool to bring our own alcoholic beverages. This is usually a way to reduce your overall price of dinner out because it’s common practice for restaurants to mark up wine upwards of three-hundred percent.

What you may not know is that bringing your own wine is acceptable—sometimes welcomed—by higher-end restaurants that don’t officially announce the BYO option.  In some cases, they may even waive the usual corkage fee (anywhere from a few dollars to over fifty).

To gain some pointers about when and how it’s cool to bring your own wine to dinner at places with their own good wine lists, we talked to sommeliers and others who handle wine and spirits. Before you even arrive at the restaurant with your own wine, however, Arthur Hon, beverage director of Sepia, advises, “We prefer that diners communicate beforehand that they’ll be bringing in a bottle so that we can serve you in the best way possible.” This theme of mutual respect runs throughout the following pro tips. Read the rest of this entry »

Somme Wisdom: Best After-Work Drinking

Wiser Words Were Never Spoken No Comments »
Aldo Zaninotto, Osteria Langue

Aldo Zaninotto, Osteria Langhe

Where do sommeliers, bartenders and other booze experts go for a nightcap after serving drinks to people all evening?

To get an answer to that question, we asked sommes and others at several major watering holes/chow zones about where they go and what they drink after work.

Alexander Smith (Eno Wine Bar): Sable Kitchen & Bar (505 North State)
“I typically taste many wines throughout the week, so beer or liquor usually sound better! Sable has an expansive liquor selection and thoughtful cocktail list. You can try new things all the time. Sable also has a nice selection of unique gin and tonics and a better tequila selection than most.” Read the rest of this entry »

A Sonnet, Spoiled: Chicago Bartenders Reveal Five Easy Ways to Ruin a Martini

The Fine Art of Mixology 1 Comment »
Owen Worley, TETE Charcuterie

Owen Worley, TETE Charcuterie

By David Hammond

H.L. Mencken called the martini “the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet.” The martini is an elegantly simple drink, following classic three-ingredient structure: gin or vodka, dry vermouth and a garnish (usually olive or a lemon twist).

What could go wrong? Lots. We chatted with several Chicago bartenders to get their take on how such a simple thing as a martini can go totally FUBAR. Read the rest of this entry »

The Art of Cocktails, story already in progress

Spirits Just Sound Happy, Don't They?, The Fine Art of Mixology No Comments »

The new cocktail menu at Sepia, curated by Joshua Pearson & Peter Vestinos Read the rest of this entry »

Just Try This at Home, We Dare You

Bars of Summer, The Fine Art of Mixology No Comments »

Superstar mixologist Peter Vestino’s summer cocktail menu at Sepia, courtesy of Grapevine PR:

strawberry old fashioned 11
strawberry and peppercorn infused ridgemont reserve 1792 bourbon, house-made rhubarb star anise bitters, muddled cherries

basil fizz 10
grand marnier, apricot liqueur, muddled basil, fresh lime juice, topped with soda water

pimm’s cup 10
pimm’s #1, lemon syrup, cucumber-lime ice cubes, soda water

miss g.g.’s east egg cocktail 10
northshore #6 gin, honey-thyme syrup, chamomile tea, fresh lemon juice, soda splash

french 75 12
hendrick’s gin, fresh lemon sour, orange bitters, topped with bugey cerdon demi-sec sparkling rose

blueberry lemonade 10
veev açaí spirit, muddled blueberries, fresh lemonade, soda splash

the drunk monk 12
old raj gin, yellow chartreuse, lemon juice, orange peel

sepia mule 10
ginger infused vodka, fresh lime juice, ginger beer

right’s ricky 10
right gin, mathilde peach liqueur, fresh lime juice, sugar cane syrup, soda water

honeycomb margarita 12
house-made honeycomb tequila liqueur, partida blanco tequila, fresh lime juice

tangerine nectar 11
tangerine tea infused plymouth gin, organic agave nectar, fresh lemon juice, egg white

Newcity’s Top 5 of Everything 2007: Drink

News and Dish No Comments »

Top 5 Cocktails
Fig and almond old-fashioned, Sepia, Peter Vestinos
Pear Nectar, Sepia, Peter Vestinos
Blue Ridge Manhattan, Violet Hour, Tobey Maloney
Citrine, Graze, Jennifer Contraveos
El Corazon with Del Maguey mezcal float, Nacional 27, Adam Seger
—Michael Nagrant

Top 5 Chicago Mixologists
Adam Seger, Nacional 27
Peter Vestinos, Sepia
Jennifer Contraveos, formerly of Graze
Tobey Maloney, Violet Hour
John Kinder, MK
—Michael Nagrant

Top 5 Local Brews
Hop Juice Double India Pale Ale, Two Brothers
Alpha King, Three Floyds
Pere Jacques, Goose Island
Summertime Kolsch, Goose Island
Heavy Handed IPA, Two Brothers
—Michael Nagrant

Booze King: Sepia’s Peter Vestinos reinvents cocktails

The Fine Art of Mixology No Comments »

By Michael Nagrant

Peter Vestinos is Iron Chef Liquor. In October, Vestinos, head barkeep at Sepia (123 North Jefferson), beat out a host of local luminaries, including Adam Seger of Nacional 27, in an Iron Bar Chef competition.

Curious about the guy who bested some of Chicago’s top mixologists, I stopped in at Sepia last Monday night. The restaurant was behind on its second turn and folks stood three-deep behind the bar. People threw money, waitresses angled for orders and gray-hairs in Brooks Brother’s button-downs demanded infinite configurations of vodka. I was horrified. And not because I was getting boxed out by a gaggle of “Sex in the City” wannabe’s sipping sherry, but by the volume of vodka requests.

Vestinos offered up a terrific cocktail program based on house-made sour mix, grenadine, infused liquors and bitters, but all they wanted was to pay $14 bucks for a clear, colorless, odorless, tasteless liquid. Using this logic, you’d expect them to ignore the restaurant menu and demand chicken nuggets from Sepia’s chef Kendal Duque.

While my inner tastemaker wanted to kick ass, Vestinos forded the maelstrom, rifling through wineglasses, pumping his gleaming tin shaker, all the while deploying a severe poker face. And, unlike at the Violet Hour where it takes a day to make one drink, Vestinos kicked out the occasional craft cocktail in minutes. After witnessing this, I’d also dub him Iron Chef Stoic.

He’s not immune to what’s going on, saying, “You just gotta pick your battles.” He adds, “I’ve had people look at my cocktail list, hand it back and say, ‘I want to see your martini list. These aren’t cocktails.’ It’s not their fault. People have forgotten how to drink, just like they forgot how to eat or to drink wine.”

Part of the reason Vestinos might be so good at maintaining a visual cool is that he’s a sketch-comedy actor and writer. He founded the local troupe 37Foxtrot, and wrote and performed a one-man show, “Cooking Light with Ms. Berndadette,” based on fake Discovery Center classes gone awry, last year.

Bartending was a role he never would have predicted. As the only member of his family to go to college, and the son of a career bartender, he swore he’d never keep bar. After years of producing corporate videos, he enrolled in bartending school and landed a job at Cyrano’s Bistro. He says, “I made more in two days than in two weeks with the other job.”

He moved on to the Tasting Room, and while on a trip to New York, he ran into a whiskey smash at Audrey Sander’s Pegu Club. Vestinos says, “There was this Gourmet article on Audrey talking about not having vodka on the back shelf and no soda guns at the bar. I was like, that’s crazy. The whiskey smash I ordered was like discovering wine. There was this bouquet, and the whiskey was bright and light. I came back the next night. ”

Back in Chicago he pored through classic tomes like the Mr. Boston guides and works by Dale DeGroff. As an innovator, he started building his drinks in the glass side of his Boston shaker, as opposed to the tin side where most bartenders work. He says, “I want customers to see what’s going on.”

When he organized the bar at Sepia, Vestinos featured gins on the center shelf and flanked them with whiskeys, cordials and rums, and de-emphasized vodka by putting it on the bottom shelf.

He keeps a bouquet of fresh aromatics like mint in ice water on the back bar and juices his limes with a citrus squeezer bar side. He says, “People order a Cosmo and they’ve never seen anyone make it with a fresh lime. The smell that floats across the bar is amazing.”

Vestinos has also become a cultural scientist. He says when people order vodka cocktails, they are very specific about the garnish because it’s the only thing they can control. He says, “You have people asking for one regular olive and one blue cheese olive, or one olive and a twist.” Sensing a customer’s desire for creativity, he might suggest they try gin, as “it’s the original flavored vodka.”

If those folks bite, they’ll find a fizzy French 75, Hendricks Gin hit with a demi-sec rosé float where the aroma off the glass drops like a grapefruit and lemon bomb. Vestino’s old-fashioned made with fig- and almond-infused Woodford Reserve bourbon and homemade cranberry bitters reinvigorates the syrupy drink we’ve come to associate with brandy-soaked Wisconsinites, as a balanced clean sipper. His dark n’ stormy is like a gingerbread cookie soaked in rum and features a floating storm cloud of ruby port. Even his fruitier fare, such as the Pear Nectar (gin with agave nectar, lemon and egg white), is balanced with the slight bitterness of a pear-green-tea–infused Plymouth Gin.

While Vestinos is focused on his craft, you might want to get to Sepia soon just in case Hollywood comes calling. As Vestino’s says, “The other day, my girlfriend said, this mixology thing seems to be working out. I told her, well, the acting thing is going pretty well, too.”

Sepia, 123 North Jefferson, (312)441-1920.